“Cold Frame Plants”: Broccoli, Cabbage, & Cauliflower
Broccoli, Cabbage, & Cauliflower are all grown similarly. They’re all “cool weather plants”. Cauliflower can be planted the earliest– as early as January. The best way to grow these plants is using a Cold Frame (PHOTO SOURCE: http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/3439193/list/how-to-start-a-cool-season-vegetable-garden):
January-June:
Cauliflower:
If you plant to attempt growing cauliflower in the home garden, it requires consistently cool temperatures with temperatures in the 60s. Otherwise, it prematurely “button”—form small button-size heads—rather than forming one, nice white head.
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Select a site with at lesat 6 hours of full sun.
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Soil needs be very rich in organic matter; add composted mature to the soil before planting. Fertile soil holds in moiture to prevent heads from “buttoning.”
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Test your soil! (Get a soil test through your cooperative extension office.) The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8.
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It is best to start cauliflower from transplants rather than seeds. Transplant 2 to 4 weeks before the average frost date in the spring, no sooner and not much later.
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Space the transplants 18 to 24 inches apart with 30 inches between rows. Use starter fertilizer when transplanting.
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Plant fall cauliflower about the same time as fall cabbage. This is usually 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost and also need to be after the temperature is below 75 degrees F.
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If you really want to try starting cauliflower from seeds, start the seeds 4 to 5 weeks before the plants are needed. Plant the seeds in rows 3 to 6 inches apart and ¼ to ½ of an inch deep. Do not forget to water the seeds during their germination and growth. Once they become seedlings, transplant them to their permanent place in the garden.
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In early spring, be ready to cover your plants with old milk jugs or protection if needed. For fall crops, shade them if they need protection from the heat.
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Add mulch to conserve moisture.
Care:
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Make sure that the plants have uninterrupted growth. Any interruption can cause the plants to develop a head prematurely or ruin the edible part completely.
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Cauliflower requires consistent soil moisture. They need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week; with normal rainfall, this usually requires supplement watering.
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For best growth, side-dress the plants with a nitrogen fertilizer.
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Note that the cauliflower will start out as a loose head and it takes time for the head to form. Many varieties take at least 75 to 85 days from transplant. Be patient.
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When the curd (the white head) is about 2 to 3 inches in diameter, tie the outer leaves together over the head with a rubber band, tape, or twine. This is called blanching, and it protects the head from the sun and helps you get that pretty white color.
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The plants are usually ready for harvest 7 to 12 days after blanching.
Typical Pests:
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Cabbageworm
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Aphids
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Harlequin bugs
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Clubroot
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Black rot
Harvest/Storage:
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When the heads are compact, white, and firm, then it is time to harvest them. Ideally, the heads will grow 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
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Cut the heads off the plant with a large knife. Be sure to leave some of the leaves around the head to keep it protected.
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If the heads are too small but have started to open up, they will not improve and should be harvested.
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If the cauliflower has a coarse appearance, it is too mature and should be tossed.
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If you want to store cauliflower, you can put the head in a plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator. It should last for about a week.
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For long-term storage, you can also freeze or pickle the heads.[9]
Plant Out: March-July Harvest: July-November
April-June:
Broccoli:
Choose a sunny site with fertile, well-drained, well-built soil. Loosen the planting bed & mix in up to 1 inch of mature compost. Water the bed thoroughly before setting out seedlings.
Leaf-eating caterpillars — including army worms, cabbageworms, & cabbage loopers — like to feast on broccoli leaves. In summer, harlequin bugs & grasshoppers can devastate young plants. Prevent these problems by growing plants beneath row covers, as shown:
Plant Out: June-July Harvest: July-August
February-June:
Cabbage:
Starting Cabbage Indoors:
Spring: Start seeds indoors or in a cold frame eight to 10 weeks before your last spring frost, and set out hardened-off seedlings when they are about 6 weeks old. Seeds germinate best at 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Summer: Start seeds 12 to 14 weeks before your first fall frost, & transplant the seedlings to the garden when they are 4 to 6 weeks old. Plant early & late varieties to stretch your harvest season.
How to Plant:
Growing cabbage plants requires regular feeding & abundant sun. Choose a sunny, well-drained site with fertile soil. Loosen the planting bed & mix in a 2-inch layer of compost. Water the fertilized bed thoroughly before setting out seedlings. Allow 18 to 20 inches between plants for 4-pound varieties; larger varieties may need more room. Varieties that will produce heads that weigh less than 2 pounds (check your seed packet) can be spaced 12 inches apart.
Harvesting and Storage
Begin harvesting cabbage when the heads feel firm, using a sharp knife to cut the heads from the stem. Remove & compost rough outer leaves, & promptly refrigerate harvested heads. If cut high, many varieties will produce several smaller secondary heads from the roots & crown left behind.
Cabbage will store in the refrigerator for two weeks or more, & you can keep your fall crop in cool storage for several months. Clean cabbage carefully, because heads may harbor hidden insects.[5]
Plant Out: February-June Harvest: June-October
Cabbage Can Be Re-Grown From Leaves!
Cabbage is relatively easy to grow from scraps. Simply place your leftover leaves in a bowl with just a bit of water in the bottom. Keep the bowl somewhere that gets good sunlight & mist the leaves with water a couple of times each week. After 3 or 4 days, roots will begin to appear along with new leaves. When this happens you can transplant the cabbage in soil.[6]
